Saturday, May 10, 2014

The Current Time In India Is Kerala Time!

By Mitchell Jones


Whether you're a native Indian living abroad, looking to reconnect with home, or an adventurer looking for a great Indian visit to add to your mantle, we've got the same advice for you. If you want to know what is the most happening destination in India, right now, let us tell you.

Hands down, my friend (as they say in India), you have to get to Kerala. The heydays of Katmandu and Goa have come and gone. Unless you want to be a trophy of irony, forget them. Mumbai and Delhi are certainly happening, but the breakneck hectic surge of humanity is a bit much for many

No, if you want a visit to India that gives you the top experience, in a chilled atmosphere, immersed in natural beauty, but without sacrificing cultural vibrancy, the current time in India is Kerala time! This hot Indian up-and-comer of a destination stretches along the south-western corner of the country. (I like to tell people, if they can conjure up an image of where Chile is in South America, they can figure out where Kerala is in India). This area has all you could ask for in your Indian vacation.

Consider these features:

Let's start with Kochi. It's sometimes still called Cochin on older maps. But, by whatever name, the commercial center of Kerala is as happening as it is beautiful. It sits engagingly at the crossroads of some of Kerala's famous backwaters. The town spreads out over the northern end of a peninsula, several islands and the corresponding mainland. Kochi's ubiquitous ferries ply the waterways of the city's exquisite natural harbor. Personal experience allows me to testify that dolphins sometimes swim so close to the low slung ferries that you can, without exaggeration, simply reach over and pet them, right there in the water. It's a memory that has stuck with me my whole life.

Kochi's built environment provides an excellent complement to the natural beauty of its harbor. The city's history has involved diverse colonization. A particularly long colonial period was the century and a half under Portuguese administration. Regardless of one's general opinion on colonialism, one of its inadvertent treasures is fertile cultural mingling. Kochi has been an exemplar of such cultural crossroads. One of the legacies of this history is a stunning architectural heritage. This is especially on display in the Fort Kochi area, which is a must see if you visit the city.

Don't let all that gorgeous nature and culture mislead you, though. When urban rocking is the name of the game, Kochi can deliver there, too. The town has a happening nightlife: restaurants provide great food from all the regions of India, along with a fine assortment international dining options. And once dinner is done, you can hang out at any of an assortment of cafes, including some artsy spots. Or, if it's more your speed, don't worry, there are plenty of clubs and pubs to party away the eve.

And when you've had enough of the big city action and want to get away to more subdued settings, Kerala fills that need just as well. For those who want to be on the move, we recommend exploring the backwaters. They are composed of lagoons and lakes parallel to what used to be known more exotically as the Malabar Coast. These lakes and lagoons are linked by a network of canals and rivers.

While there is so much to explore here we'll quickly mention just two options. The center of all this is the Alappuzha (still sometime referred to as Alleppey) district. The main town of the backwaters, it is sometimes called the Venice of the East because of all the canals running through the town. It was one of the great trading centers of the area and remains a vibrant and fascinating location to visit.

The other really popular backwater adventure is to book passage on one of the kettuvallams, or Kerala houseboats. About 2000 of these kettuvallams make their way through the Kerala backwaters. Originally built to be grain barges, the kettuvallams have since been converted into what might be best described as floating cottages. Their thatched roofs enclose a comfy sleeping area and usually a Western style inboard toilet. Part of the boat is converted into an outdoor deck, perfect for viewing the scenery, watching the sunset and eating the Kerala-style meals prepared by the crew.

If, though, even that's too hectic a pace for you; all you really want is to stretch out on the sand, suck on a refreshing beverage and read a good book, Kerala has that covered, too. There are a number of options, but we will only mention one here - and a total gem it is. Varkala is the lounger's paradise. However, despite this totally chilled atmosphere, it has the additional benefit of being largely free of the Western hippies and raver kids so prevalent in similar spots along the Malabar coast.

The lush tropical coastline and exquisite beach is punctuated by the geologically unique cliffs around which the seaside village is located. There is a series of small shops - stretching over a kilometer - that run along the top edge of the cliffs. There are so many lovely places to simultaneously feed the palate, the eyes and the soul, that this is a location that has to be seen to be believed. (To get some fleeting sense of the delights, check out the video at our post: The Current Time in India is Varkala Time!)

And if you're so hard to please that even all that isn't quite enough (and you actually do plan on leaving the beach for more than a delicious seafood lunch), Varkala has a 2000 year old temple, which is an important Vaishnavaite shrine. Plus, it is a major center of Ayurvedic medicine. Heck, it even has an Ayurvedic hospital! Could you really ask for more?

If you're already fantasizing about it, Kerala is easy to reach. International flights come into both Kochi and the Kerala capital city of Thiruvananthapuram (about 32 miles, or 50km from Varkala). However, if you can afford the time, I'd recommended making even more of an adventure out of your holiday. Instead, fly into the even better served Mumbai airport. After the necessary trip to visit Bollywood, you can book passage on the wonderful Konkan railway, which will carry you down the west coast. When I first traveled through India, back in the 1970s, this railway didn't exist. It has been a huge boon to Indian travel since its opening in 1998.

Whatever you choose, the Konkan adventure or flight right into Kochi, don't hesitate: get yourself to Kerala. These great locations don't last forever: their very popularity soon undoes them. So, don't miss Kerala, now, while in the full bloom of its glory. The current time in India is, indeed, Kerala time!




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